Some DSLR cameras today offer multiple exposure mode. These include the Nikon D3, D300, D2H, D2X, D200 and D80, the Pentax K10D and * istD, Pentax Optio 550, and the Fujifilm Fine Pix S5, S3, S2 and S1. This is not a complete list see the camera manual to see if your camera has to be this option.
When you combine multiple images with layers in Photoshop and other image editing software to connect to there a number of benefits that can shoot in the camera, as you canto do with the film. The D300 uses the raw data from the sensor of the camera and be able to summarize the information / data from a maximum of 10 shots in a single file. This eliminates the need to work with the opacity and blending of multiple files and work offers a softer image, with less integration effort. With the help of the Auto-gain is set, no need for individual claims after the opening of the first adjustment and shutter speed.
Although you can use a macro lens Fixed focal lengthwhen shooting multiple images, zoom lens provides a "macro", the advantage of no one with the camera or the position of each flower display. For these recordings I have a Tamron AF 28-300mm XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) Macro lens 1:3.5-6.3. While not a true macro lens offers 1:3 magnification.
One of the main ingredients of a successful multi-exposure photography is the choice of a subject that lends itself to this process. Flowers offer a variety of forms,Tones and contrasts that blend so the final image. These attributes contribute to the unique photographs produced with the use of multiple exposures. Using the techniques described in this article, you can reach a brightness and transparency that goes beyond single photograph flower show.
Setting the white balance (WB) is preferable to allow the camera to auto white balance, to determine the color temperature. By shooting in RAW format, you can also adjust the white balance after exposureto complete each image. If you experience WB settings that you can get tonal variations, which will enhance the photo.
A dark background provides a nice contrast with bright flowers, and also blends well with subsequent exposures. I use black paper tubes for the majority of white, yellow and pink flowers. It 'a good idea, the settings of the first and last scheduled zoom control the proportion of flowers and the background in the frame. One technique I like to use is tostart the shortest focal length, where a large amount of background in the frame and then gradually the focal length for each shot. Each successive zoom setting changes the focal length to reach the maximum extent. If we use is the 28-300mm zoom as an example the total change from the shortest to the longest focal length 272 mm. Suppose a record 10 shots. Our first meeting will be at 28mm and 300mm in our last, so that leaves 8 shots, which divide toArea. With a little 'closer for easy positioning of the focal length, the sum of the settings 28, 60, 90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240 and 300 mm for the 10 entries. Sometimes instead of rigid divisions I just look through the lens and the zoom after what seems to look good to me, because I record every show.
You can also zoom to the next with the flower begins to fill the frame and then gradually decrease. It 'important when using thisTechnique to start with the camera very close to the flower. In the case of the Tamron 28-300mm for the shorter distance, the focus is about 19 cm. The zoom is then in the later stages, so that in the last exhibition of the flower almost fills the frame with just a little 'background is adjusted.
The final image was created with multiple exposures are often difficult to visualize. One of the advantages of digital is to check the possibility of the photoimmediately after admission and the camera settings and the placement of flowers.
The lighting is equally important in the multiple exposure photography as in a single exposure photograph. I am happy to be a skylight, which provides a diffuse light source to have the flowers. If you must drive, flash drive, I recommend that you use umbrellas or softboxes to preserve the structural details of the flowers.
Due to the length of time required to place multiple exposures in a waydescribed above, it is necessary to control the positioning of the flower, camera, lighting and background.
Because if I start, I do not know exactly how long I am an individual flower pictures, as I think of fresh water with some plant foods that give most of the flower shops for free will, if you want to buy the flowers ready. When the photo session covers in a few days, as you come up with new ideas, you'll be grateful if the flower with food!
Ito start leveling the surface of which is placed the flower. It 'a good idea to start with a stem long enough to flower and the flower in a vase, which provides a stable support area. From a long stem, you can take the flower from below, offering a unique perspective that I have rarely seen in the photography of flowers, like most people out on the petals, pistil and stamen focus on the top or side provides. With the flowering and placed on a flat surface can be activatedto reach every corner of the pot you want. Like the flower that turns the light on the petals and the position has changed from the camera lens. Many shapes and contrasts can be achieved through the use of this technology and can often lead a very abstract model, which can be very attractive. Turning the flower on a singe point of a spiral effect can be achieved.
The use of a tripod to stabilize the camera. I would also recommend the use ofLock the mirror / shutter delay and a press-timer or remote. Position the stand at the first picture and the level of the camera. There is also a good idea to adjust the camera angle parallel to the position of flowers, and when maximum depth is desired, the aperture to f/16 of/22. In general, I shot in aperture priority mode.
I hope these tips and guidelines provide a good starting point to explore moreExposure photography.
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